PERMIT
Part One: Flyfishing for Permit

FISHING FOR PERMIT
Permit are by far the most difficult, picky, frustrating fish you'll encounter on the flats. They have superb eyesight and a well developed sense of smell - one writer suggested they might be a higher life form in a fish's body. Aside from their obvious physical differences, permit differ from bonefish in several other ways. First of all, due to their body size, they seem to be much more comfortable in deeper water. Although it is fairly common to see permit with their tail and dorsal fin sticking out of the water, they usually won't remain there for long periods of time.

Because permit have less to fear from the flats predators, they will suddenly appear on a flat for a brief feeding spree and then fade back into the deeper water. They're constantly on the move and never remain in one area for a great deal of time so quick, accurate casts (and luck) are essential.

Unlike bonefish, permit are quite finicky about what they eat. They will often charge your offering, only to stop at the last moment and refuse it. Don't become discouraged with a few refusals. They are catchable. Anglers take them every week during the season.

FLY- FISHING FOR PERMIT
For the fly-fishing angler, the permit is considered the ultimate flats species. The bottom line is, unlike the bonefish, permit always seem to be suspicious. Permit have even sharper eyesight as well and unfortunately they seem to be motivated primarily by smell. There is no way that any fly pattern can come close to acting (and especially smelling) like a real crab, but, it is still possible to fool them if you work hard.

FLY SELECTION FOR PERMIT
Permit flies are generally larger than bonefish patterns because permit seem to prefer a slightly meatier meal. Because of their larger body size, they also tend to put more of a strain on a hook, so it is a good idea to use larger/stronger hooks. Although there is much debate over the best permit pattern, the best advice is to stick with one pattern that looks good to the guide and keep trying.

Patterns: Permit have a particular weakness for small crabs (especially live ones) so the majority of the productive patterns are crab imitators. The two most productive patterns are the McCrab Fly (1/0) and the Del Brown. When purchasing the McCrab, make sure that the deer hair is clipped very close to the hook shank and the underside of the fly is weighted properly. If this pattern is tied incorrectly, it will go belly up when you put it in the water.

The Del Brown should be tied in light tan and cream only. The darker colors which are widely available do not work here.

Other popular patterns: MOE (Mother Of Epoxy),# 4and # 2, in white, pink, and brown; Clouser Minnow, # 2 to 1/0, chartreuse and white bucktail with red lead eyes; Puff patterns, # 2 to 1/0, in light and dark brown; Jewett Blue Crab I/O.

FLY-FISHING PRESENTATION
Permit are equipped with the latest F.D.S. technology (fisherman detection systems) and must be approached very carefully to avoid spooking. Bottom substrate permitting, permit are best approached by foot because the noise of waves slapping the hull of your boat will often spook them. It's best to try and determine the likely behavior of the fish and then plan accordingly.

Tailing fish are most likely to take a fly, but stumbling upon one is somewhat rare. Cruising permit are most commonly encountered, so you must be prepared to place the fly well in front of the fish, allow it to settle to the bottom, and patiently wait for it to come upon the fly. When the permit is several feet from the fly, "slide" the fly along the bottom in a slow, deliberate, crab-like fashion and then stop the fly completely. All smart crabs know that they cannot outrun a permit and will remain motionless in hopes that the permit will overlook them. This will be the moment of truth because the fish will either pounce on the offering or just swim by in search of something more interesting.

If the permit doesn't immediately inhale your offering (which is about 75% of the time), don't begin stripping the fly like a bone-fisherman - think like a terror stricken crab and creatively manipulate the fly into slowly "removing" itself from the vicinity (this, of course, is quite difficult with all the adrenaline). The trick is to try to keep the fish interested, allowing it to look the fly over and still not pull the fly away from it. Don't be afraid to let the fly remain motionless - almost always, permit prefer to take a motionless fly.

FLY RODS FOR PERMIT
Rods should be the same as the previously mentioned bonefish recommendations but a bit more stout to handle larger flies and fish. The ideal permit rod is a 9 wt.

FLY REELS
Those reels discussed in the bonefish section should fare well against permit, but make sure your reel has at least 200 yards of 20-lb. backing.

FLY-LINES
In most cases, a floating line will suffice because most permit flies are heavily weighted.

LEADERS
Tippet/Leader: Again, follow the bonefish guidelines but use a slightly stronger tippet section (12-15 lb.).

 

 

 

Articles

BONEFISH ON THE FLATS
Part One: Introduction, behavior and spotting bonefish.
Part Two: Fly-fishing for bonefish
Part Three: Flies and rods for bonefish
Part Four: Reels, lines, techniques and bait for bonefish

PERMIT
Part One: Flyfishing for Permit
Part Two: Spinning for Permit

TARPON
Part One: Fly-fishing for Tarpon
Part Two: Fly-fishing equipment for Tarpon
Part Three: Spinning for Tarpon

FISHING FOR OTHER SPECIES


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